Dans le cadre de la chaire KPMG ESCP "Gouvernance, Stratégie, Risques et Performance", ESCP a organisé le 12 mars dernier un débat sur les enjeux actuels et les spécificités de l'industrie du luxe.

Quels éléments ont conduit KPMG et ESCP à organiser cet événement dans le cadre de leur Chaire commune ?

Pour Patrick Petit, Associé, KPMG et Président de l’Audit Committee Institute France, "les travaux de la Chaire visent à aider les entreprises à identifier, appréhender et gérer les risques auxquels elles sont confrontées. La Chaire réalise des recherches – tant théoriques qu’appliquées – autour de l’intégration du management des risques et de la performance dans la stratégie des entreprises. Dans ce contexte nous finançons une recherche conduite par deux Professeurs ESCP (Véronique Tran et Benjamin Voyer) sur le thème des risques et performance de l’industrie du luxe. L’ambition de cette recherche est notamment de construire une cartographie des risques spécifiques de ce secteur. Plusieurs cartes interactives des risques ont été élaborées sur la base de plusieurs dizaines d’études d’analystes financiers. Une étude de cas a déjà vu le jour : "Risques et bénéfices de la vente de produits de luxe en ligne : cas Chanel". Et un article de presse rédigé par Benjamin Voyer a déjà pu en faire l’écho : "Chanel opts out of fashion’s love affair with online shopping".

Sur le marché concurrentiel du luxe, celui-ci représente environ 800 milliards d’euros*, les enjeux sont multiples : préservation des savoir-faire, lutte contre la contrefaçon, choix des réseaux de distribution, recherche de nouveaux marchés, maîtrise des coûts de production, développement du portefeuille de marques, présence et développement dans les pays émergents,  arrivée de nouveaux consommateurs, digitalisation…
ESCP et KPMG ont jugé opportun de traiter ces challenges en réunissant différents experts lors d’une table ronde qui s’est tenue le 12 mars. Les débats ont plus précisément porté sur les pays émergents, principalement la Chine, sur les marchés historiques du luxe (US, Japon), le développement du digital et de l’offre e-commerce, et sur le développement durable.

*étude Bain/Altagamma

Le 12 mars dernier,  Les professeurs Véronique Tran et Benjamin Voyer réunissaient autour d’eux, pour échanger sur leurs perceptions des nouveaux enjeux de l’industrie du luxe. :

  • Christophe Balaresque, Luxury Brand & Marketing Director, Arjowiggings creative Papers
  • Hervé Chopin, Associé, KPMG
  • Antoine Lacroix, Directeur Digital et e-CRM, Van Cleef & Arpels
  • Olivier Delbard, professeur en développement durable, ESCP
  • Laetitia Michea, Directrice des Opérations, Hôtel Le Royal, Leading hotels of the world
  • Philippe Ribera, Directeur Marketing Produits Monde, Lectra

Parmi les articles de Véronique Tran et Benjamin Voyer sur ces questions :

  • Can Sustainability be Luxurious? Investigating Implicit and Explicit Attitudes Towards Sustainable Luxury Consumption, Best Conference Paper Award, Global Fashion Management Conference, London, February 13-15, 2014.
  • Risks and benefits of selling luxury goods online: should Chanel, the icone of timeless fashion, open an e-boutique?
  • Materialism and Sensitivity to Brands, soumis à l’Association for Consumer Research North American Conference, October 23-26, 2014, Baltimore, MD, USA.
  • Can Sustainability be Luxurious? A Mixed-Method Investigation of Implicit and Explicit Attitudes Towards Sustainable Luxury Consumption, soumis à l’Association for Consumer Research North American Conference, October 23-26, 2014, Baltimore, MD, USA.

Campus

Paris
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';void 0!==x&&!1!==x&&0==D&&L>x&&(o.after(O),$(document).off("click",".press-btn").on("click",".press-btn",function(e){e.preventDefault();var a=$(this),n=a.attr("aria-index"),r=$('[excel][aria-index="'+n+'"]'),i=a.attr("data-pager"),o=r.attr("limit"),s=o*(i-1),c=o*i,l=a.attr("data-items"),u=$('[excel][aria-index="'+n+'"] > *').length,d=r.attr("limit");a.attr("data-pager",parseInt(i)+1),t(r,s,c),u+parseInt(d)>=l&&a.remove()})),void 0!==x&&!1!==x&&void 0!==D&&!1!==D&&(k=function(t,e,a){return t=t.slice(e,a)}(k,D,x)),o.append(k).promise().done(function(){$("[excel] .cell").each(function(){var t=$(this).html();t=t.replace("|","
"),$(this).html(t)})})},g.send()})}function e(t){var e=t.split("/");return 1*(e[2]+e[1]+e[0])}function a(t,a,n){return t.sort(function(t,r){return t=e(t[a]),r=e(r[a]),"DESC"===n?t>r?1:tr?-1:0})}$("[excel]").length>0&&$.when($.getScript("https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/xlsx/0.14.0/xlsx.full.min.js"),$.getScript("https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/mustache.js/3.0.0/mustache.min.js"),$.Deferred(function(t){$(t.resolve)})).done(function(){t()})} //Youtube souncloud if ($('[playlist-youtube]').length > 0 || $('[playlist-soundcloud]').length > 0 ) { $.when( $.getScript( "https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/malihu-custom-scrollbar-plugin/3.1.5/jquery.mCustomScrollbar.min.js" ), $.getScript( "https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/jqueryui/1.11.4/jquery-ui.min.js" ), $.Deferred(function( deferred ){ $( deferred.resolve ); }) ).done(function(){ //$('head').append(''); youtube(); soundCloud(); }); } // Youtube function youtube() { var y_list=$("[playlist-youtube]"),y_key="AIzaSyAQlhYoXcbGNmazwKkx80xlLyXZF70oOT8",v_date="",v_Id="";y_list.each(function(){var t=$(this),a=t.attr("playlist-youtube"),e=t.attr("number"),i=t.attr("item"),s="";function d(s){var d=s;$.get("https://www.googleapis.com/youtube/v3/playlistItems",{part:"snippet",maxResults:e,order:"videoCount",pageToken:d,playlistId:a,key:y_key},function(s){s.pageInfo.totalResults;var d=$("[data-items]",t),l=$("[data-pager]",t);d.attr("data-items",s.pageInfo.totalResults),l.attr("data-pager",s.nextPageToken);$(".grid > div",t).length;s.pageInfo.totalResults<=e&&$(".bottom-listing button",t).remove(),$.each(s.items,function(e,s){!function(e){$.get("https://www.googleapis.com/youtube/v3/videos",{part:"snippet",id:e,key:y_key},function(s){var d=[];v_date=s.items[0].snippet.publishedAt,v_date=jQuery.datepicker.formatDate("dd/mm/yy",new Date(v_date)),v_title=s.items[0].snippet.title,v_descr=s.items[0].snippet.description,v_lang=s.items[0].snippet.defaultAudioLanguage,"fr"===v_lang||void 0===v_lang?v_lang="in French":"en-US"===v_lang&&(v_lang="in English"),s='
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'+v_title+'

['+v_lang+']
'+v_descr+"
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'),d(s),$(".bottom-listing button",t).click(function(){s=$(this).attr("data-pager"),$(this).attr("data-loaded",parseInt($(this).attr("data-loaded"))+1),loaded=$(this).attr("data-loaded"),$(this).attr("data-items")<=loaded*e&&$(this).remove(),d(s)})}); } //soundcloud function soundCloud() { var s_list=$("[playlist-soundcloud]");s_list.each(function(){var t=$(this),l=t.attr("item"),s=t.attr("number"),u=t.attr("playlist-soundcloud");s_key="htuiRd1JP11Ww0X72T1C3g",null==s&&(s=3),soundcloud(u,t,s,l,1)}); } function soundcloud(play_list , s_this ,s_numb,s_item, p_number, btn) { var pF=s_numb*p_number,pD=s_numb*(p_number-1);if(!0!==btn)var result='
';else result="";$.getScript("https://connect.soundcloud.com/sdk/sdk-3.3.0.js",function(){SC.initialize({client_id:s_key}),SC.get("/playlists/"+play_list).then(function(s){var t=s.tracks.slice(pD,pF),e=s.permalink_url,i=s.track_count;t.forEach(function(s){var t=s.title,i=s.artwork_url,l=(s.stream_url,s_key,s.description),a=jQuery.datepicker.formatDate("dd/mm/yy",new Date(s.created_at)),c=(s.permalink_url,s.id),r=s.tag_list;s.waveform_url;if(i=null==i?"http://www.escpeurope.eu/sites/default/files/inline-images/Logos/logotype-ESCP-Europe-only.png":i.replace("-large","-t500x500"),r.toLowerCase().search(new RegExp("\\english\\b"))>=0)var o="English";else o="French";null!=l&&""!==l||(l="No description."),result+='
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'+t+'

[in '+o+']
'+l+"
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',btnc=".js-close-popup",time=0,body=$("body"),js=$(".js-popup");js.each(function(){var a=$(this).find("iframe"),t=a.attr("src");a.length>0&&-1!==t.indexOf("youtube")&&(-1!==t.indexOf("?")?a.attr("src",t+"&enablejsapi=1"):a.attr("src",t+"?enablejsapi=1"))}),$(document).on("click",link,function(a){a.preventDefault();var t=$(this),e=t.attr("href"),s=$(e),l=t.attr("btn-bg-color"),o=t.attr("content-bg-color");null!=l&&void 0!=l||(l="#240085"),null!=o&&void 0!=o||(o="h-bg-white");var n='';body.addClass("no-scroll"),"wrapped"!=s.attr("aria-inner")&&s.wrapInner('
').attr("aria-inner","wrapped"),(s.hasClass("js-slide-right")||s.hasClass("js-slide-left"))&&s.addClass(o),0==$(".backdrop").length&&$("body").append(back),0==$(".js-close-popup",s).length&&s.prepend(n),"close"!=s.attr("aria-label")&&null!=s.attr("aria-label")&&void 0!=s.attr("aria-label")||(s.fadeIn(),s.attr("aria-label","open"))}),$(document).on("click",btnc,function(a){a.preventDefault();var t=$(this).attr("aria-controls"),e=$(t);$(t+" iframe").length>0&&$(t+" iframe")[0].contentWindow.postMessage('{"event":"command","func":"pauseVideo","args":""}',"*"),time=e.hasClass("js-slide-right")||e.hasClass("js-slide-left")?900:0,e.attr("aria-label","close"),e.stop(!0,!0).delay(time).fadeOut(100,function(){$("body .backdrop").remove(),$("body").removeClass("no-scroll")})}); } // End });