{"id":8455,"date":"2022-09-22T11:06:33","date_gmt":"2022-09-22T09:06:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/?p=8455"},"modified":"2023-02-17T16:49:52","modified_gmt":"2023-02-17T14:49:52","slug":"3d-printing-is-no-miracle-cure-for-the-fashion-industrys-unsustainability","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/tl-dr\/3d-printing-is-no-miracle-cure-for-the-fashion-industrys-unsustainability\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201c3D printing is no miracle cure for the fashion industry\u2019s unsustainability\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap has-medium-font-size\">There is one thing we can probably all agree on: <a href=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/tl-dr\/the-fashion-supply-chain-needs-a-reset-for-sustainability\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><mark>the fast fashion industry still has a long way to go regarding sustainability<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns cs-column h-my-40 h-my-0-sm is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:33.33%\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-style-rounded\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"446\" height=\"446\" src=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/marlene-hohn-escp.jpg\" alt=\"Marlene Hohn\" class=\"wp-image-8459\" srcset=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/marlene-hohn-escp.jpg 446w, https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/marlene-hohn-escp-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/marlene-hohn-escp-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/marlene-hohn-escp-96x96.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 446px) 100vw, 446px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center h-ml-20 h-ml-0-xs is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:66.66%\">\n<p><span class=\"h-fs-18 h-fw-700 h-cl-blue\">Marlene Hohn<\/span><br>PhD candidate at ESCP Business School (Berlin campus)<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:33.33%\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-style-rounded h-mx-auto\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"482\" height=\"482\" src=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/christian-f-durach-escp.jpg\" alt=\"Christian Durach\" class=\"wp-image-8461\" srcset=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/christian-f-durach-escp.jpg 482w, https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/christian-f-durach-escp-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/christian-f-durach-escp-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/wp-content\/uploads\/christian-f-durach-escp-96x96.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 482px) 100vw, 482px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center h-ml-20 h-ml-0-xs is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:66.66%\">\n<p><span class=\"h-fs-18 h-fw-700 h-cl-blue\">Christian Durach<\/span><br>Professor at ESCP Business School (Berlin campus)<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Formerly presenting two seasons per year, the industry has turned into a fast-paced, globally\u2011spread production system that offers fresh looks every other week. <strong>The societal costs of having new products designed, produced, and shipped within such a short timeframe are substantial.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>A production system that has become \u2018degenerate\u2019<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>As Nicolai Peitersen <a href=\"https:\/\/www.euronews.com\/green\/2021\/04\/23\/is-3d-printing-the-key-to-a-sustainable-fashion-industry\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">points out<\/a>, fashion production creates vast amounts of wastewater and other wasteful materials while the increased consumption of fashion results in an equally steep increase in fashion waste &#8211; the recyclability of which is unthinkably low.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/climate-change\/news\/fast-fashion-atacama-desert-chile-b1953722.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Chile\u2019s desert dumping ground for fashion leftovers<\/a>, or tragedies like the <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Dhaka_garment_factory_collapse\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Rana Plaza factories\u2019 collapse<\/a> in 2014, illustrate how degenerate the fashion production system has become \u2013 not least with respect to the working conditions on the shop floors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed aligncenter is-type-wp-embed is-provider-the-choice-by-escp wp-block-embed-the-choice-by-escp h-tc h-my-30\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"wp-embedded-content\" data-secret=\"IdC6JDlQEu\"><a href=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/show-the-data\/the-sustainability-of-the-fashion-industry-with-valerie-moatti\/\">The sustainability of the fashion industry with Val\u00e9rie Moatti<\/a><\/blockquote><iframe loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; visibility: hidden;\" title=\"&#8220;The sustainability of the fashion industry with Val\u00e9rie Moatti&#8221; &#8212; The Choice by ESCP\" src=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/thechoice\/show-the-data\/the-sustainability-of-the-fashion-industry-with-valerie-moatti\/embed\/#?secret=vDRJAuzCdA#?secret=IdC6JDlQEu\" data-secret=\"IdC6JDlQEu\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The co-founder of <a href=\"https:\/\/wikifactory.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Wikifactory<\/a>, who also co-authored <a href=\"http:\/\/cup.columbia.edu\/book\/the-ethical-economy\/9780231152648\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">The Ethical Economy<\/a>, suggests that <strong>innovative technologies like 3D printing, also called \u2018additive manufacturing,\u2019 present a promising solution for these issues.<\/strong> This assessment is primarily based on the author\u2019s focus on the environmental sustainability of production and transportation processes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In this regard, 3D printing\u2019s emergence is believed to make fashion production more efficient while it may, at the same time, provide opportunities to move production back to main consumer markets in Europe or North America. <strong>Both developments stand to significantly reduce the costs and emissions in this industry.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\"><p>While our findings support the notion that 3D printing is likely to reshape where and how fashion is produced, they suggest that these changes will do little to solve the social sustainability issues in fashion production.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>Yet, <strong>the results of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.emerald.com\/insight\/content\/doi\/10.1108\/IJOPM-09-2020-0654\/full\/html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">our recent research project<\/a> paint a different picture of the <em>social<\/em> sustainability implications of 3D printing in the fashion industry.<\/strong> While <a href=\"https:\/\/escp.eu\/news\/will-3d-printing-make-mass-fashion-industry-more-sustainable\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">our findings<\/a> support the notion that this technology is likely to reshape where and how fashion is produced, they suggest that these changes will do little to solve the social sustainability issues in fashion production.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Why? To understand why the potential economic benefits of 3D printing use in fashion production are unlikely to result in increased social sustainability, <strong>it is pertinent to consider the governance structures prevalent in the fashion industry<\/strong>. In typical fashion supply chains, stark power differentials prevail between retail firms like Adidas, Zara or Puma, and their suppliers, meaning that the former strongly influence where and how apparel is produced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>The potential of reinstating fashion as \u2018an appreciated art form\u2019<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Thus, one should remain sceptical about who would reap the benefits of 3D printing\u2019s emergence. Our research suggests that <strong>more powerful actors in the downstream supply chain will capture any resulting economic gains. <\/strong>In consequence, the detrimental working conditions in mass fashion production would remain largely unchanged.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Still, one silver lining could lie in what Peitersen describes as reconceiving fashion as \u201can appreciated art form.\u201d <strong>If the innovativeness of 3D printing would incite the big fashion companies to move away from their current low-cost, (ultra-)fast-fashion strategy, the positive impact on environmental as well as social sustainability would be gigantic.<\/strong> The technology\u2019s potential for creating personalised fashion items for the masses could just be the incentive they need.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-yellow-color has-alpha-channel-opacity has-yellow-background-color has-background is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>This post gives the views of its author, not the position of ESCP Business School.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Marlene Hohn and Christian Durach comment on an article claiming that 3D printing could be the key to a sustainable fashion industry.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8457,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[37,27],"class_list":["post-8455","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tl-dr","tag-sustainability","tag-tech","category-15","description-off"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>\u201c3D printing is no miracle cure for the fashion industry\u2019s unsustainability\u201d - The Choice by ESCP<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Marlene 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